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February 19th, 2007, 07:53 PM
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Homemade lathe, done dirt cheap!!!
Well, I wouldn't exactly call it a lathe as much as a "shaft turner" would be a better way to describe it. But I did make it dirt cheap. $3.99 is what I invested in it (I had to purchase some crutch tips from the drugstore). Here is how I built it (keep in mind I had all material already on hand except for the crutch tips): Materials consisted of a hand drill, the drill's plastic carrying case, a 3' length of 2x4x6" (I believe a 2x4x12" would have worked better), a 6" piece of 1x6", a crutch tip, a 3" machine screw (1/4") with a lock nut and some 2" self-tapping wood screws.
To build: With a cutting wheel, hacksaw, or whatever, cut out part of the hand drills carrying case enough to expose the chuck (be sure to allow some extra room on the sides. Cut out a notch for the electrical cord to go through. Drill some good sized vent holes in the case where the cooling vents on the drill line up so the drill motor won't overheat. With self-tapping screws, screw the case down onto one end of the 2x6" (2x12" is better) with the chuck pointing to the other end of the plank. Put the drill inside the case, close and latch the lid and measure the height that the center of the chuck is from the bottom of the plank. With self-tapping screws, attach the 1x6" board onto the far end of the plank with the center of the chuck pointing directly to the center of the 1x6". Take a 3/4" hole saw and drill a hole through the center of the 1x6" at the same height the chuck was from the plank. File and sand this hole until it is very smooth. Drill a hole through the center of the crutch tip and run the machine screw through the tip to where it is coming out of the bottom of the tip and run the lock nut down the screw until snug. Put the machine screw/crutch tip into chuck tightly and put the drill into the case. Lock the trigger down put the power cord in the notch, make sure the drill is not in reverse, close lid and latch it shut. Put some blue painters tape around your cue shaft (tip end) at the point where it will be making contact with the hole saw hole and run the shaft through the hole. Take the non tip end and twist it into the crutch tip, plug in and go to work on that tip! I just made this thing yesterday so I don't know how useful it's gonna be, but it sure works darn good for sanding/shaping tips and cleaning up a ferrule. No damage at all to the shaft. In fact, the painters tape didn't even show any wear on it. It's gonna come in mighty handy come re-tipping time!!! And all for the cost ($3.99) of a pair of crutch tips!!! Maniac |
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February 20th, 2007, 03:57 PM
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Would you happen to have a picture of the finished product? Sounds interesting
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February 21st, 2007, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
I am so computer stupid, I don't know how to post attachments!!! Maniac |
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February 21st, 2007, 11:59 AM
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Links to the images, very nice work!!
http://www.billiards-talk.info/galle...e.php?n=72&w=o http://www.billiards-talk.info/galle...e.php?n=73&w=o http://www.billiards-talk.info/galle...e.php?n=74&w=o |
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February 21st, 2007, 01:07 PM
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Looks great. Nice work.
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February 21st, 2007, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
you can put a bearing in your block of wood to keep from marring shaft when you get a shaft that is slightly crooked, the tape won't keep that from happening you really need collets to protect shaft you can make collets out of plastic hose easily i'm assuming that you may end up with other peoples shafts in there, different sizes and such |
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February 21st, 2007, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Maniac |
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February 21st, 2007, 08:09 PM
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i could make you some collets out of delrin. that's what all my collets are made of. the delrin collet would fit inside of the bearing to spin freely without letting the delrin rub the shaft. hope i'm making sense here. so, you need a bearing that has an inside diameter of (example: 1.000 ") with the collets turned to fit inside that. various sizes for the shaft to go thru starting at say 12mm, 12.25mm,12.50mm,12.75mm to 13mm |
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February 25th, 2007, 02:43 PM
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#9 |
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Here’s my version of a low-buck spinner. The drill motor is bolted through the tapped hole in the side to a hardwood board with a ½ in. slot routed along the centerline. My “tailstock” shown is a made of aluminum angle attached to a piece of channel that fits the slot. Some plastic ball bearings are bolted through slotted holes for adjustable support at the tip end. I have a few joint pins in common sizes for the chuck, plus some adapters made from dowel stubs glued to crutch tips. Spins nice and smooth once you adjust the height at the tip end. I’ve done shaft seal and polish work, tips, and even a re-taper. With a different “tailstock” I’ve even done a couple wrap jobs. So far, investment in hardware is just over $20. I have no aspirations of being a real cue repairman, but I enjoy the convenience this provides for tipping, tinkering and maintenance. Future upgrades planned include a foot switch, as well as a spring-loaded loop over the top of the ferrule with another bearing, and maybe even an adjustable tool rest for trimming new tips or mushrooms. I hope it’s a thought-starter for anyone desiring to do their own minor work. Just get yourself a couple junk cues to learn with before you bolt down a good shaft. I’ve used some old 2 piece Dufferins as learning cues. Gotta keep watching for more, though. Someone always seems to make me an offer I can’t refuse on my refurbished ones.
Bill |
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February 26th, 2007, 12:55 PM
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#10 |
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Nice work there Billy Jack!!! I've got to install me an adjustable set of plastic bearings, like the ones you are utilizing, to the back of my "spinner".
Maniac |
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February 27th, 2007, 12:40 AM
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#11 |
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I picked up a bunch of 1/4" I.D. bearings at an aircraft surplus store in Florida while on vacation for $2 each. If you can't find a deal like that, try some plastic sliding door rollers from the hardware store. If you spin them only on an unthreaded portion of the bolt and keep them lubed, they should last for a while. You'll just have to keep the speed down. My bearings are open, so they need cleaned of sanding dust periodically. I think I'm going to swap them for some sealed metal ones. I'll glue some thin rubber or plastic around the O.D. to keep from marring the shaft or ferrule. I just enjoy the work I can turn out with my cheapo spinner. It's a breeze to keep up your pool equipment when maintenance it's easy and fast. And, with my weak game, I need all the help I can get from good equipment.
Bill |
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May 9th, 2007, 05:13 PM
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#12 |
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Well it looked like all you guys were having to much fun so i had to give it a go, here is my old lathe converted.
Attachment 167 Attachment 168 Attachment 169 Attachment 170 Attachment 171 Last edited by ccn7 : February 28th, 2008 at 07:01 PM. |
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May 9th, 2007, 05:18 PM
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#13 |
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Here is a few old cues i'm messing with, most were junk but now i think i can actually salvage a few. This is addicting. Need suggestions on sealing a clearcoating.
Attachment 172 Attachment 173 Attachment 174 Attachment 175 Attachment 176 Attachment 177 Attachment 178 Last edited by ccn7 : February 28th, 2008 at 07:01 PM. |
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May 15th, 2007, 09:01 AM
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#14 |
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Hi, this post is very informative; however I would like some specific information. If someone can help me then please send me a private message. Best Regards,
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